Frequently Asked Questions

Q: Do you install tile or flooring?
A: We don't install — we're a supply store. But we know how this stuff goes in, and we're glad to walk you or your installer through the install process.

Q: Are you open to the public, or contractors only?
A: Both. We're a supply store for everyone — contractors, builders, and homeowners are all welcome. Whether it's one bathroom or a fifty-house build, come on in. We have options for every style and budget.

Q: Where are you located?
A: We're at 4127 South Danville Dr., Abilene, TX 79605, right next to FedEx.

Q: What are your hours?
A: Monday through Friday, 8:00am to 5:00pm. We're closed Saturday and Sunday.

Q: Do I need an appointment?
A: Nope. Walk in anytime during business hours and we'll help you.

Q: What do you carry?
A: Wall and floor tile, backsplash, and decorative accents; wood and vinyl flooring; and everything for building and waterproofing a shower, with Schlüter as a cornerstone line. We also stock thinset, 40 colors of grout with matching caulk, floor leveler, patch and repair, acoustic panels, and a selection of specialty tools.

Q: What brands do you carry?
A: Schlüter Systems, Custom Building Products, Rubi, Pearl, Gundlach, American Olean, Marazzi, Happy Floors, Fusion, MSI, Mir, Style Access, and more. Looking for a specific line? Call us and we'll let you know.

Q: Do you sell to homeowners doing their own project?
A: Absolutely. A lot of folks are surprised how much we enjoy helping homeowners. Bring your photos and measurements and we'll help you figure out what you need.

Q: Can you help me figure out how much I need?
A: Yes. Bring your square footage or your measurements and we'll help you get the quantities right, including a little extra for cuts and waste.

Q: Do you offer contractor accounts or trade pricing?
A: We do. We work with contractors and builders on account terms, and we offer wholesale and pallet pricing for commercial customers and large projects. Come talk to us about setting that up.

Q: Can you order something you don't have in stock?
A: Usually, yes. We special-order all the time. Tell us what you're after and we'll see what we can get.

Q: What's your return policy?
A: In-stock items can be returned within 30 days with your receipt. Special orders can't be returned, and clearance items are final sale.

Q: Do you have a clearance section?
A: We do, you can find it on our website under Clearance, or come see what's on the rack. Clearance is first come, first served, and all sales are final.

Q: Do you offer samples?
A: Yes. Our showroom is easy to browse, and we're always glad to send you home with samples so you can see them in your own space.

Q: What's the difference between porcelain and ceramic tile?
A: Both are clay-based and fired, but porcelain is denser and less porous, so it's tougher and handles water and freeze-thaw better — good for floors, wet areas, and outdoors. Ceramic is a little softer and easier to cut, and it's a solid choice for walls and lighter-use floors. Tell us where it's going and we'll point you to the right one.

Q: Can I use wall tile on the floor?
A: Usually not. Wall tile is often thinner and not rated to take foot traffic, so it can crack or wear (scratch). Floor tile, on the other hand, can usually go on a wall just fine.

Q: What tile is best for a shower floor?
A: It depends on the type of shower floor you have. If your using a line drain, you’ll want a non-skid floor tile. If your shower floor is funnel shaped (regular drain) smaller tile or mosaics work best on a shower floor. More grout lines mean better grip underfoot, and the smaller pieces conform to the slope toward the drain.

Q: Is large-format tile harder to install?
A: It can be, mostly because it shows every imperfection in the floor. Large tile needs a very flat substrate, a large-format mortar, and usually a leveling clip system to prevent lippage — edges sitting higher than their neighbors. It's very doable; just come talk to us about the right setup before you start.

Q: What thinset (mortar) should I use?
A: It depends on the tile and what you're setting it over. As a rule, large-format tile and wall installations do best with a mortar built for them, while standard floor tile can use a quality general-purpose mortar. Setting over a membrane like Schlüter changes the answer too. Tell us your substrate, and we can guide you.

Q: How flat does my floor need to be before I tile?
A: The bigger the tile, the flatter the floor needs to be. For standard tile the industry calls for no more than 1/4" of variation over 10 feet, and for large-format tile it tightens to about 1/8". If your floor's out, floor leveler or patch fixes it — we carry both and can show you how.

Q: Do I need an uncoupling membrane like Schlüter Ditra?
A: Not always. A lot of concrete floors that do not move don’t need it. However, it's cheap insurance. An uncoupling membrane lets the floor and the tile move independently, which helps prevent cracks — especially over plywood — and it adds waterproofing.

Q: Do I need to back-butter my tile?
A: For large tile and natural stone, yes — spreading a thin coat on the back helps you get full coverage with no voids underneath. For small tile on a wall, usually not. Full coverage is the goal either way.

Q: Do I really need to waterproof my shower?
A: Yes. A tiled shower isn't waterproof on its own — grout and tile let moisture through over time. A proper waterproofing system behind or on top of the backer board is what keeps water out of your walls and framing. It's the step you never see and never regret.

Q: Can I tile straight over cement board or drywall in a shower?
A: Not without waterproofing. Cement board is stable, but it isn't waterproof on its own. You'll want either a waterproofing membrane (like Schluter-Kerdi) or an elastomeric material (liquid, like Custom Building Products RedGard). You can put Shluter-Kerdi on drywall, but elastomeric waterproofing is NOT sufficient.

Q: Which is better…liquid membrane or sheet membrane?
A: Both work well when installed proplerly. It mostly comes down to your substrate and drain. A liquid membrane (roll or trowel on) is simple and great for us on cementuous backer-boards. Kerdi membrane and Kerdi board go up fast and integrate with the Kerdi drain thus creating a water tight envelope. If it were our shower we would use Schluter-Kerdi because of ease of use and their lifetime warranty.

Q: What's the difference between grout and caulk, and where does each go?
A: Grout fills the joints between tiles on a flat surface. Caulking is often used on plane changes — inside corners, where the wall meets the floor, and where tile meets a tub or countertop. Those spots move, and grout typically cracks there. We carry 40 colors and can color-match to any brand grout so it blends right in.

Q: Should I use sanded or un-sanded grout?
A: The rule of thumb is, un-sanded grout is for narrow joints, roughly 1/8" and under. Sanded grout is for joint 1/8” - 1/2” where is holds up better. Prism is used for 1/16” - 1/2”, inside, outside, on glass, and polished surfaces.

Q: Do I need to seal my grout?
A: If it's standard cement grout, yes — sealing helps it resist stains over time. If your using Prism grout, no - Prism has a sealer built in. Single component and epoxy grouts don’t need sealer.

Q: Should I seal natural stone?
A: Yes. Natural stone is porous, so it needs sealing to guard against stains — usually before grouting and again after, then periodically over time. Ask us which sealer fits your stone.

Q: What size trowel do I need?
A: It scales with your tile. Bigger tile needs a bigger notch to leave enough mortar for full coverage; small tile uses a smaller notch. Tell us your tile size and we'll get you the right trowel.

Q: What tools do I need for a basic tile job?
A: At minimum, a trowel sized to your tile, a tile cutter or wet saw, spacers, a grout float, a bucket and sponge, and a level. We carry Rubi tools and everything on that list, and we're glad to walk a first-timer through it.

Q: Do you carry level clips?
A: We do — Rubi and Pearl wedges and spinners.